Introduction
We built this infrared lamp as a direct swap for the SIPA rotary blow molding platform. The whole point? To stop the heating ups and downs that mess with the parison. It only works if the power lines up perfectly with the machine’s original heat profile. This isn’t some off-the-shelf bulb. It’s a purpose-built replacement, engineered for the Aoki blow molding setup running on SIPA gear.
Specs That Actually Matter
On a rotary machine, steady heat comes down to giving the system exactly the wattage and voltage it expects. Our lamp hits that target, so you don’t get voltage drop or current starvation—two things that wreck consistency. These industrial circuits run on 400V, and that’s what we spec. It delivers the heat density you need across the 300mm heating zone, so the parison stays in the right melt state, all the way through. And the fit? Critical. The lamp length matches the SIPA heating box footprint, so the heat lands exactly where it should—no wasted energy, no cold spots.
Built for the Real World
Inside, you’ve got a shortwave infrared filament in a quartz envelope. It comes up to temperature fast, which helps cut cycle time. The internal halogen gas cycle keeps the filament stable and prevents blackening, even after thousands of hours. It uses an R7s connector—the standard interface—so it’s a straight drop-in. Wire it up, and it seats right without any fiddling or modifications. The quartz glass takes the shock of rapid on/off cycles, day after day, without cracking under the pace of high-speed production.
What It Does on the Line
On the SIPA rotary machine, this setup stops the heating swings that lead to uneven bottle wall thickness. Because the power matches the machine, the parison temperature stays uniform, and the blowing process settles into a smooth rhythm. But here’s the honest part. Running at full power density throws off a lot of heat. So your machine’s cooling system needs to be in good shape to keep the area around the lamp—and the electrical bits—from running too hot. If the cooling is undersized, the lamp still works, but the surrounding electronics can get warm.
The Payoff
Swap is simple. Pull the old lamp, pop this one in, and you’re back to consistent output. No recalibration. Just dependable, repeatable heat you can count on shift after shift.